A Basic Guide to Central Vac Installation
While it may not be as easy to install as a television or telephone, installing a central vacuum is a pretty simple process. Normal houses usually call for about 1 inlet per each 600 sq. ft. of living space. And don’t forget that the vacuum hose should reach far enough to be able to clean the cabinets, closet areas, tile flooring, entryways, and even the outside decks. An inlet is not necessary for every room in the house. Having a 30 ft. long hose, one inlet placed at the beginning of a hallway normally allows reach into two or three rooms. Place an inlet towards the base of the stairs if needed. Also, make certain that the inlets are not placed behind doors, furniture, or other hard to reach places.
Instead of using a hacksaw, cut the PVC pipe with a tube cutter. Be certain to get rid of all burrs from the pipe. Glue the male end of the pipe only in order that there are no ridges inside of the pipe run. Utilize wide sweep elbows all the way through the pipe run with the exception being the tight sweep elbow directly behind the inlet valves. Use two 45° bends for any offset jogs instead of two 90° bends. The primary runs can be inserted either above the house (the attic) or else under the house, provided that attention is made to trim down fittings wherever it is possible.
We at MD Mfg. suggest that homes greater than 5000 sq. ft. obtain a 110 volt power unit that is greater than 20 AMPS. Having more than one unit is only ever necessary when multiple users will be operating the units at the exact same time. New SuperValves or ElectraValves have both the 24 volt activation switch and also 110 volts for operating an electric power brush. You will need to have an electrician wire these vales into a close-by electrical outlet. The two conductor CL2 (18-22 gauge) low-voltage wires need to be tied to the piping every 5ft. They can be spliced together or be brought all the way back to the central vacuum unit. Consult your local building code regulations for the requirement of steel piping to penetrate the firewall if the central vacuum unit is situated inside of the garage. The majority of central vacuum manufacturers now carry steel piping and fittings.
During the assembly process, temporary plaster guards will safeguard the inside of the piping and the inlet valve extensions will also be much better off if the wall ends up being thicker than originally expected. Verify whether or not your manufacturer suggests that you vent the exhaust. And be sure it is not located in an area that will create exhaust problems. If the system has a good filtration system, it will probably not need venting at all.
Tackling the central vacuum installation process in existing homes is nothing to be afraid of! This job can be very easy. During your installation, make sure to employ closets, soffits, pantries, return air ducts, and any other hidden spaces that might be useful in getting the job done.